The New Ferret Owner’s Checklist

This guide is designed to help new ferret owners prepare for their new addition. It includes real examples of products that ferret owners may need. I hope it helps!


Contents:

Things to do before your ferret comes home.
Things to do within the first 2-3 days after getting your ferret.
Things to do within the first 2 weeks after the ferret comes home.
Things to do in the not so distant future.



Things to do BEFORE your ferret comes home:

  • Get some books.
  • Find a ferret-knowledgeable veterinarian in your area.
      • Call ahead and ask questions to make sure you get a suitable vet.
  • Do research, research and more research


  • Ferret-proof your house.


  • Educate everyone else in your human family on your ferret’s needs.


  • Buy the following products:
    • Ferret Cage

      • It’s ideal to get a cage that will disassemble easily for weekly cleanings. It also helps if the top can be lifted. Cages with wire grate platforms will need some adjustments, as the grates are hard on little ferret feet. Try putting down a variety of acrylic/plastic sheets (like the kind used as a glass substitute in windows), carpet, etc. Grates can be left exposed on the ramps that go from platform to platform – ferrets have trouble climbing up smooth surfaces. Also make sure that the doors on the cage are secure. Ferrets are experts and opening doors. If you can open the door just by pulling or pushing hard enough, then it’s not secure. Also avoid cages with painted bars. Ferrets often bite the bars of the cage, especially when they want to come out, and the paint can flake into their mouths. Powder-coated bars are okay. When it comes to ferret cages, the bigger it is, the better. But if it’s very tall, make sure the platforms are arranged in such a way that the ferret cannot fall freely from the top platform to the bottom. Also beware of accessible slide-out trays at the bottom of the cage. If they aren’t closed securely inside the cage, a ferret can learn how to wheel himself out of the cage via the tray.

    • At least two hammocks

      • Ferrets like having choices when it comes to sleeping places. Sometimes, especially in warm weather, they may even prefer sleeping on the bare platforms. Either way, variety is essential. Try getting one simple hammock and one with a pocket or “hideaway” area for colder days or for when the ferret wants to sleep in darkness. As for the latches that attach the hammock to the cage bars, the simpler the better. Latches of all kinds are known to break or fall off in the washing machine, and the simple hooks are easier to reattach or replace.
      Examples: [1] [2]

    • Litter Boxes

      • If you’re bringing home a baby ferret, get as many litter boxes as you can afford! Place one in as many corners as possible in the rooms where the ferret(s) will be allowed. I recommend rectangular litter boxes, even though the majority of litter boxes marketed for ferrets are triangular. The reason – many ferrets, especially males, are too large to fit comfortably inside a triangular litter box (even the large size ones), and they will often decide that they would rather go on the floor. Many of the litter box mishaps in my house were solved by simply getting a larger rectangular litter box to replace the “corner” litter boxes. Try to get a litter box with a high back – to keep the ferret from “going” over the edge – and a low front – to allow for easy access.
      Examples: [1]

    • Food Bowl

      • Get one that will attach securely to the wall of the cage. Ferrets are known to flip over food bowls just for the fun of it. Avoid bin feeders that lead to the outside of the cage. A more cunning ferret might dig out the food, climb into the mouth of the bin, and come out the back to freedom. (I’m speaking from experience.)
      Examples: [1]

    • Water Bottle/Bowl

      • From my experience, ferrets are perfectly capable of drinking easily from a water bottle, however they usually prefer drinking from a bowl. In an area like a cage, though, the water is likely to get dirty very quickly since it is in close proximity to food and waste. I recommend a bottle for the cage and a bowl for outside the cage. When shopping for a bowl, look for a heavy ceramic kind, as they are more difficult to topple.
      Examples: [1] [2]

    • Food

      • Protein and fat are both good. Also, most of the first ingredients listed should be from meat sources like chicken, eggs, etc. If you absolutely cannot get good ferret food in your area, a high quality kitten food is better than a low quality ferret food. I personally recommend The Ferret Store Superior Choice Original Ferret Diet, as well as Totally Ferret (a more expensive option). Marshall is a good choice in an emergency (if you run out of food and Marshall is the only kind available), but those who are boycotting Marshall Farms may have concerns. (Click here for more information about the Marshall Farms boycott.)
      Examples: [1] [2]

    • Litter

      • Absorbent pellet newspaper litter is an excellent choice. The less dust the better. I recommend Sheppard & Greene Kozy Korner Ferret Litter.
      Examples: [1]

    • Ferretone

      • It’s a wonderful treat that virtually all ferrets love, plus it’s good for them! It’s a vitamin supplement, but unlike other kinds where more than a few drops can be an overdose, Ferretone can be given more generously. It’s great as a treat or as a distraction when getting shots or nail cuts.
      Examples: [1]

    • Pet Carrier

      • It’s important to have one ahead of time; that way you’ll be prepared for that first vet trip. Try to get one that’s airline approved, so you can take your ferret with you on flights! My ferret carrier is great; it fits nicely under the seat in front of me on an airplane.


    Things to do within the first 2-3 days after getting your ferret:


  • Take you ferret to the vet for its first checkup and rabies/distemper vaccinations.
      • Keep track of all the information given by your vet. Make sure the vaccines are killed, not modified-live. Also find out the source of the canine distemper vaccine (canary pox, egg, etc.), as ferrets may have allergic reactions to certain kinds. Make sure to get the checkup and vaccines every year.
  • Buy some ferret ear cleaner and clean some ferret ears.
      • This, as well as many other products listed later on, can also be bought easily ahead of time. I’m listing the latest recommended date. Clean ferret ears every three days or so. I still haven’t found an easy way to do this, but I’ll make sure to add it to the list if I do discover it. (If that happens, I’ll also be expecting a Nobel Prize.) Er, in other words... This is not an easy task. But with consistency, ferrets may grow to tolerate it. I recommend using two people to complete the task, one person to hold the ferret’s scruff and do the squirting and swabbing, and the other to hold the ferret’s body.


    Things to do within the first 2 weeks after the ferret comes home:


  • Buy a nail cutter and styptic powder.
      • I recommend cat claw scissors (not the guillotine style). Human nail cutters have the tendency to crush the nail before cutting through, while cat claw scissors make a clean cut. As for the styptic powder, this is in case you accidentally draw blood while cutting nails. Some people say that styptic powder stings, though. Cornstarch is a good substitute.
      Examples: [1][2]
  • Cut some ferret nails!
      • The easiest way to cut a ferret’s nails is to flip the ferret on his back in your lap, with his feet towards your stomach, and squeeze a few drops of Ferretone onto his stomach. Point his little pointy face towards the Ferretone, and once he sees it and starts licking, nothing else matters to him! You are now free to cut nails to your heart’s content. Just grab a paw and start clipping, making sure not to cut too close to the quick. Do this every two weeks or when you notice your ferret’s nails getting too long or too sharp. Chances are your ferret may not have ever had his nails cut before coming home, so cut them as soon as possible.
  • Buy some ferret shampoo.
      • Chances are, also, that your ferret may not have ever had a bath before coming home. Prepare for some bathtime fun! Some ferrets like water, most don’t. I bathe my ferrets in the bath tub. First I fill it up, then I dump the ferret in and get him wet (the dreaded moment for all), then I pile on the shampoo (Gumby’s least favorite part), then I dump them back in the tub and rinse them off, then I put them under the faucet for a final rinse (Oscar’s least favorite part and Shango’s favorite part). Make sure the water is warm but not hot, and about three inches deep. Also take special care to make sure you rinse off all the ferret shampoo. Afterwards, throw some towels on the floor and let the ferret burrow through them to get dry. This is the fun part. Don’t let your ferret out of the room until he is completely dry, or he will take his big fat wet body to some dusty place and get dirty all over again. You can expect that, after a bath, your ferret will act very crazy and excited!
  • Buy a larger variety of treats.
      • I recommend healthy stuff, like tartar control treats. However, on special occasions (such as every five minutes, according to my ferrets), raisins are fun to offer. Try to resist the pointy begging faces and only offer raisins sparingly; they have a lot of sugar in them and are bad for teeth.
  • Buy some toys.
      • If you are on a tight budget, you do not need to rush for toys in the very beginning (as in, the first several days). Ferrets are so curious and excitable that they'll probably be thrilled by stuff you already have lying around the house (not to mention overwhelmed by all the freedom they have compared to when they were at the store). Some favorites that you probably already have are --

      • balls

      • plastic or paper grocery bags

      • shipping boxes (the cardboard variety; they like to climb in and out)

      • large pieces of cloth like towels or rugs (to billow up and down and get them excited, or to give them rides ^^)

      • stuffed animals (Shango, for example, LOVES beanie babies)

      • socks (they'll jump for them, wrestle with them, play tug of war, or steal them -- if they steal the socks, you'll need to steal them back because some ferrets are cloth eaters, and they just can't resist eating socks and getting intestinal blockages)


      Some great ferret toys to consider buying --


      • balls (made of cloth, hard plastic, or hard rubber (provided you keep a close eye to make sure no pieces are being bitten off. Balls with jingle bells inside are always a big hit.)

      • cat toys (like the little wands with strings at the end, where you dangle a ball or a feather or something over your animal's head (although if you have birds, you might want to steer clear of feathery toys)

      • tunnels (lots of fun, but expensive; you can also make your own tunnels)


      Anything that smells rubbery or leathery will also be a hit. Try to avoid anything made of soft foam or soft rubber; the ferret will eat them. Do not allow a ferret to play with potentially chewable toys unsupervised. Periodically check toys that the ferret has hidden for signs of wear.

      Some companies make edible chew toys. I highly recommend Hyper Fur Cheweasels and Fuzzy’s Foamy Fries.
      Examples: [1][2]


    Things to do in the not so distant future:


  • Buy a harness and lead.
      • Now you can take your ferret out with you! Make sure the harness has your phone number on it, just in case. I do not recommend harnesses that fasten with velcro, as many ferrets enjoy biting and chewing on velcro, making it a chore to get the thing fastened. Anything with a secure snap should do the trick. Frontpacks are also great for going out with your ferrets!
  • Buy some ferret hairball remedy.
      • It’s good to have especially during shedding seasons, and also when your ferret is making a sound like he might have something annoying stuck in his throat.
  • Buy ferret-safe flea shampoo
      • You never know when the dudes might get fleas, and you’ll want to kill those things as fast as you can. It’s best to get flea shampoo made specifically for ferrets, but flea shampoo for kittens is also safe.
  • Last but not least, have fun with your new ferret!
      • Well, you should have been doing this from the beginning, but still.


    Thanks for reading! I hope you've found this guide to be helpful!



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    Disclaimer: The information on this site has not been read or approved by a veterinarian. It is simply advice from a fellow pet owner and does not replace books or vet visits. While I try my best to give sound advice, I am not an expert, and I cannot be held responsible for any adverse effects on any one else's pets. When in doubt, always consult a veterinarian.

    (c) 2002-2005 by Pho. Please do not reproduce any part of this site without permission.